Pantry editor
Adrian Coate
Adrian Coate writes about ingredients you can keep on a shelf and what to do with them on a Tuesday in February.
Beats
Published in Open Burner
Kitchen Notes
What the Fridge Becomes When You Stop Shopping for the Week
A small experiment from a Halifax apartment: three months of daily shopping instead of weekly, and what changed in the kitchen.
Tools
The Stove-Top Coffee Pot as a Daily Machine
Adrian Coate's six-cup Bialetti has made him coffee every morning since 2011. He explains the small differences that matter.
Preserving
Quick-Pickled Onions for Everything
Adrian Coate keeps a jar of pink-pickled red onions in his refrigerator at all times. He makes a new one every nine days, which is roughly how long the old one lasts.
Slow Cooking
A Pot of Osso Buco on a Cold Tuesday
Adrian Coate is not Italian, but he has been cooking osso buco on Tuesdays in winter for eleven years. The four shanks go in at one in the afternoon and come out at six.
Weeknight
A Fifteen-Minute Tomato and White Bean Stew for the Coldest Tuesday in May
Adrian Coate cooks a stew from two cans and an onion in the time it takes the rain to start — a defence of the pantry dinner as the honest end of a hard day.
Tools
The Half-Sheet Pan, Tested Over Twelve Years
Adrian Coate has roasted on the same Vollrath half-sheet since 2013. The corners are still square. He explains why this matters.
Pantry
The Tinned Tomato Question
Adrian Coate buys eleven tins of tomatoes from eight producers and reports on which ones actually justify the price.
Kitchen Notes
The Kitchen Table as Desk
On the small Portland apartment where the same maple slab is breakfast, work, mail-sorting, and dinner — and what it teaches about how kitchens really get used.
Bread & Baking
No-Knead Bread, Ten Years Later
Adrian Coate started baking the Jim Lahey no-knead loaf in 2014 and has not stopped. What has changed, what has not, and what the recipe gets right that nothing else does.
Bread & Baking
An Overnight Rye for Monday Sandwiches
Adrian Coate mixes a dark rye on Sunday night that is ready for sliced ham and mustard by Monday lunch. A loaf for the work week.
Drinks
A Lemon-Ginger Shrub for a Summer Jar
Adrian Coate keeps a quart of lemon-ginger shrub on the second shelf of his refrigerator from June through September. He drinks it with cold water and uses what's left in vinaigrettes.
Weeknight
The One-Pot Lentil Dal That Improves by Thursday
Adrian Coate cooks a pound of red lentils on Sunday and eats them, with small alterations, until the pot is empty — a working argument for the dish that gets better while you ignore it.
Slow Cooking
Overnight Beans in a Heavy Pot
Adrian Coate has been cooking dried beans the slow way since 2009. The pot goes on the back of the stove at eight in the evening and comes off the heat at six the next morning.
Preserving
Preserved Lemons by the Gallon Jar
Adrian Coate fills a four-litre jar with Eureka lemons and kosher salt every February, and by April he is cooking from it through the rest of the year.
Pantry
A Year in Vinegars: What We Used and What We Didn't
Adrian Coate kept a notebook on the kitchen shelf for fifty-two weeks, marking down which of nine vinegars actually earned their space.